Notes on the History of Vieng Phoukha Som Prasaiyamongkoune Unofficial Translation by Steven Schipani 2000

Past and Present, Vieng Phoukha (VPK) has been a place of interest to researchers, anthropologists and historians. One reason is because of the presence of caves that were inhabited by prehistoric people. According to research and local historical data, VPK was the earliest inhabited area of modern Luang Namtha Province , with evidence dating to the early, mid and late Paleolithic eras. One example is found at Phou Lan cave complex. There are at least 10 other known sites with evidence of early human habitation. These sites have cave drawings, stone carvings and weapons used for hunting. However, archaeologists have not yet determined for certain which era these artifacts date. A number of historians hypothesize that Vieng Phoukha settlements dates to about the same time as the Plain of Jars in Xieng Khouang (Muang Phuan) and the Stone stele at Phoukaneung Sinxay, Meuang Peun, Huaphan Province.

According to Thai research conducted in Khmu Kwaen areas of Nan and Phayo province in N. Thailand: Nan Province is an ancestral domain with evidence of human habitation dating to the early Paleolithic (200,000 – 7,000 BC) late Paleolithic (5,000 – 3,000 BC) and also during the time metallurgy began to appear from 2,000 – 1,300 BC. Remnants of these early civilizations are found in the Lai Kao and Nan Plains in District Nan and District Na Noy. At present there is insufficient data to determine the extent of this civilization or what level of technological development was attained. Because of similarities between Nan and VPK, the Thai researchers suspect that the two areas were inhabited concurrently by similar groups.

The appearance of copper and bronze civilizations in VPK confirms that technologically advanced groups were there since ancient times. In addition, legend states that kilns used to craft bronze drums (Korng Bang) during the 11- 12 centuries were located in VPK. Physical evidence of the kilns can be seen today.

VPK is mostly mountainous with some land under paddy cultivation. One of the most fertile areas is the Nam Jook River Valley . In this valley prehistoric stone artifacts have been found, and there are said to be some 500 16-18 th century abandoned temples in the district.

The chronicle of Khun Bulom states that Khun Lo, ruler of the court of Lane Xang constructed Muang Kwa in the eighth century. The chronicle goes on to say: The Tai-Lao migrated from Meuang Taeng under the aegis of Khun Lo. Khun Lo brought a population of commoners to construct Muang Kwa that displaced the sitting ruler, Khun Kanhang. Kanhang was a Korm (old Lao) that later moved on to Luang Namtha. Based on the chronicle, it is thought that this group went on to inhabit VPK, with perhaps Kanhang himself directing the construction of the city.

If indeed the city was built by Kanhang, there is no evidence in the annals or chronicles supporting this theory. However, a local legend recited for many generations states:

The first to settle VPK was a Korm of unknown origins with a Tai Lue wife. Later generations began to call the city Meuang Poo Kha Ya Tai. This name later changes to Meuang Phou Kha.

The linguistic origin of this name suggests that it was indeed Khun Kanhang from Muang Kwa that originally settled and built VPK.

In the Annals of Nan, its says that the court of VPK had influence in Meuang Chantabuli (present Vientiane) and Meuang Pooa (Ampur Pooa, Nan, Thailand) up until the 19 th century. The Annals go on to say:

During the reign of the wealthy Phaya Phoukha, in Muang Yang (this area now falls in present day VPK) there was a great hunter. One day he set out on a hunt, following mountains and streams deep into the forest without capturing any animals. He reached the foot of Phou Kha Mountain and came upon a large shady tree. The hunter stopped to rest in the shade and discovered two eggs the size of coconuts at the base of the tree. He took the two eggs back to the court of Phaya Phoukha and offered them as a gift. Phaya Phoukha was very happy to receive this marvelous gift and looked after the eggs with great care. He set one egg on the soft fibers of the Kapok tree and one on a bed of cotton. Soon thereafter, one of the eggs hatched, but instead of a chicken, a young man emerged. Later the other egg hatched, and out came another son. The Phaya raised the two beautiful sons as if they were his own children, and he loved them with equal accord. When the children grew older, the Phaya also gave them names. The firstborn was called Jao Khun Noon , and his younger brother Jao Khun Fong.

When Jao Khun Noon was 18 and his brother 16, they decided to pay their respect to their foster parents. After expressing their gratitude for raising them, the brothers explained that they knew right from wrong and were able to accept their duties as royal children. The two brothers then set out to visit Pratawarat Taeng, who inquired why they came to see him. Jao Khun Forng asked Pratawarat to raise his status to equal that of his brother. After hearing this Pratawarat took him to a spot 5,000 wa from the Naem Nam river and instructed him to build a city there. Pratawarat took his walking stick and scratched a line in the sand, naming the area Waranakorn, which was later called Muang Pooa by commoners. Pratawarat handed the city over to Khun Forng who came to rule its inhabitants. Pratawarat later split the principality between two brothers, setting the northern border at the “ noon ” and the southern at “san meuang lan.” Once this was done, Pratawarat revealed that he was a famous hermit.

After Jao Khun Forng became ruler or Waranakorn he had a son that he named Jao Kao Keuan. Soon after Jao Khun Forng's son was born, he died. His followers then made Jao Kao Keuan Phaya. Phaya Phoukha, his grandfather knew he was a good person that was loved by the people, and was very proud. Phaya Phoukha told two young women to invite Kao Keuan to come rule Muang Yang Jung. He accepted the invitation and soon set off for Yang Jung following a large celebration initiated by the two women. Kao Keuan told the people “My grandfather has asked me to go and rule Yang Jung. From now on, I hand the city over to these two woman, and give you my blessing. One of the women (Tavee) later had a son and the city prospered.

Kao Keuan took over Muang Jung, and his grandfather died soon thereafter.

When Phaya Ngam Meuang learned that only women looked after Waranakorn, he sent an army to take the city. Tavee and her son Tao Kam Bin did not know of this treachery. Upon hearing that Ngam Meuang's army was coming they sent an army to meet them, but were unable to repel the invaders. Tavee fled into the forest with treasure and a young woman. They took a rest in a small shack where she gave birth to a son. By the shack, there was no water, only a dry stream bed, causing her to cry out for her husband. “ Jao Kao Keuan, you asked me to make the city prosper with your son, and we don't even have any water to drink or wash.” Suddenly, it started to pour and a small flood followed. Tavee hugged her son and went down to the stream. It happened to be a full moon so it was bright and she could wash her son. She then brought him to another nearby shack. When the sun came up, the villagers came to the fields and heard a child crying. They asked her what happened, and what brought her there. While telling her story, she discovered that one of the villagers was Kao Keuan's old cook, who insisted that she and her son return to the village. She accepted their offer and the village looked after all three of them. Soon the three grew strong, staying until the child could walk. The headman then took then to Ban Saban, where Kao Keuan's son stayed until he was 16. Phaya Ngam Meuang ruled ban Saban. The headman of Ban Saban took the young man to meet Phaya Ngam Meuang when he was 16. The Phaya was taken by the young man, adopted him and installed him as an overseer. The young man was named Khun Sai.

Phaya Ngam Meuang then has a big problem and asked Khun Sai for his help. Khun Sai set things right and the Phaya was so happy that he asked Khun Sai to be Phaya. The Phaya then built a large house for Khun Sai's mother and made her “Meun San Taeng”. Khun Sai's name was changed to Jao Sai Yot, and he became ruler of Muang Bot.

The Phaya then gave Muang Pooa to the woman Oua Sin and her son Amporn. The following year, Phaya Pooa, dressed in royal regalia set off to meet the Phaya Meuang Phaya, in order to transfer the city to Jao Ngam Meuang. When the woman asked leave of Phya Ngam Meuang, she prepared a buffalo soup for him. He then teased he and said “your soup is still sweet” making her very angry. The next day she and her son left for Muang Pooa. In Muang Pooa, she sent a letter to Jao Meuang Bat, asking him to come fetch her in Muang Pooa. He came to Muang Pooa, where they were married. When Phaya Ngam Meuang found out he was also very angry and sent an army to Muang Pooa. The army took a break en route in Ban Nong Hiem before invading Meuang Pooa. While resting, Jao Sai Yot brought his army under the direction of Jao Amporn. A battle broke out, but when Phaya Ngam Meuang saw the face of his son Jao Amporn, he felt compassionate and sent his army back to Meuang Pooa.

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The record is unclear when Jao Khun Fong established Meuang Pooa. From BE. 1865-1895 (C.E. 1322-1352) Meuang Pooa was controlled by Jao Panong. At the same time, Jao Fa Ngum ruled Xieng Dong Xieng Tong, lending more evidence the VPK existed before the time of Khun Kan Hang. Thereafter, historical accounts, annals and local legend lead us to believe that the influence of VPK stretched from the Mekong to the mid-14 th century civilization of Nan Thailand , Chiang Mai, Chiang Saen and modern Bokeo Province . In the 18 th century, at the same time Muang Sing Was prospering, war and discontent broke out with neighboring Thailand , leading to VPK's decline lasting until the late 19 th early 20 th century.

In the 16-17 century the power of the Korm or Lave of VPK was displaced by the arrival of many new ethnic groups that crowed the VPK plain. The Korm Kao or Samtao also came under the influence of these groups, especially Tai Lue, Man (Yieow) and Phou Noi. It was these new arrivals that constructed temples and a great civilization over a period of about 300 years. Relics of Buddhist brick statuary date to the same period of the golden age of Lane Xang, that being the reign of Saysettatarat-Suliavong. The 18 th century heralded the decline of the Lane Na-Lane Xang influence, as Siamese feudal chiefs forced the relocation to Nan Province to prevent them from forming strategic allegiances with Burma .

Interview with Mr. Khamlee, a 68 year-old Samtao man from Ban Tieow

The Yieow came and built Wat Mahabot south of the city, on a small hill. Then they dug a seven-story moat around it. Inside this now-abandoned temple is buried a large cauldron, big enough to fit a large buffalo. There is also a 3 kg golden Buddha statue, and although many have tried to find it, no one has been successful. In fact, no one has the ability to find this statue. At the time Mahabot was built, Wat Bor Kung was also constructed northwest of the city. At Wat Orng Torng, 7 km on the road to Kui village there is another 3 kg golden Buddha, just like the one at Wat Mahabot. Over a hundred other Wats were built by the Yieow or Man from here to the Nam Khan, under the direction of a Mahama from Muang Yieow ( Burma ). There used to be a sword with a silver sheath called “Dap Yieow Ow Mai Suai” that was given to Nanvong, ruler of VPK. Nanvong was a Samtao from Tieow village that remained Chief until the French came. The French installed Nanvong as a Phaya (prince) with the new title Phaya Patavee, “Holder of the Silver Encased Sword”.

Three centuries after the furious temple construction, only Samtao lived here. We originally come from China and were once called ‘Kha Khet” meaning that we don't follow others. Eventually we wound up here in VPK. We worship only one ‘city spirit” and no others. Our city spirit is ‘Jao Meun Chin”, a Lao Yuan or Yonok. Both Lanna and Vientiane Lao also have a ceremony for this spirit. Samtao get along with other Lao Teung ethnic groups, with no history of quarrels. However in the past all the Lao Teung lived in the mountains. In 1957 some started to come down to the plains. Before 1957 there were only Samtao, who tended their rice fields and gardens since antiquity. We have also had contact with other upland groups (Hmong, Kui) and all get along fine. There has always been trade between Samtao and other groups just like today. Most Hmong live neat the Nam Kao, Nam Vang and Nam Mye rivers. The ethnic group with the strongest solidarity are the Khmu. Wat Mahabot is where bronze drums were cast, with one small drum sounding better than the others. It was very beautiful, with rhino, elephant from and flower designs. The drum wound up in Pa Daeng village, where the owner was a disabled person. One day someone borrowed the drum and sold it. It was about the size around of a small stool and as tall as a bucket. The person who sold the drum died.

Part of the Heritage left by the Man was a small cannon that we used to use in our ‘Lieng Pii Meuang” ceremony. The cannon is now kept in the provincial museum. The sword has disappeared, perhaps during the war, but I am not sure. Maybe the revolutionary army took it.

Wat Mahabot has been abandoned for a long time, since even before the French came. Why it was abandoned, I don't know. I am sure Man craftsmen made the bronze drums there. Then there is Bor Kung (shrimp spring) with a lot of shrimp, crabs and fish. Another spring is called Bor Kang because like a stewpot, it is always brimming with water. Flowing from Bor Kang is a clear stream called Huai Nam Sai that remains clear and cool during all seasons. There used to be a post stuck in the middle of the river that lawbreakers were tied, then executed. A special council decided the executions, reserved for thieves, rapists and murderers. Executions were carried out by tying the person to a post and slitting their throat with a knife. The body was left to decompose and be eaten by wild animals. Everyone was subject to the same form of justice, no matter if you were a King, Prince, Lao, Khmu or Samtao. This area is now haunted and no one goes there at night.

The Samtao do not have a creation or origin story like other ethnic groups, we only know that we came from China .

Wat Fang Sin, also known as Wat Mak Kieng (because a lot of orange trees grow there) is as old as Wat Mahabot. Notice that unimportant looking bricks and the Sim have not been disturbed or dug up. This is because there was once a Lao Teung who took a “heart of the Buddha” and probably sold it in Thailand . He later died when he returned home. After Wat Mak Kieng there is a large Bamboo with another temple. Legend states that Nan Manvong, Nan Ubalee and Nang Intha built the temple.

There used to be a French fort located on a hill in the middle of VPK, just west of the present city. There was a sim in the old city center with large painted stones that had Tham letters written on them. The stones are gone now, maybe the French took them. I am not sure where the name Vieng Phoukha came from or the past relationship with Krung Si Ayuttha, Lane Xang, Lanna or Luang Namtha.

Traditional dress of Samtao is similar to Kui Soung. Men wear large loose dark cotton pants and cotton shirts embroidered on the sleeves and collar. Women were skirts and shirts with silver buttons, and also silver bracelets. Women wear their hair in a bun. Young men cut their hair short. I have also heard the Samtao referred to as Kha Kalom Yin. Older men with long hair go to the temple to listen to Dharma teaching, and older men with short hair stay in the village and drink alcohol. Samtao eat sticky rice and most domestic animals. We usually don't eat dogs or goat, but nowadays the younger generation is beginning. We do eat a number of wild animals, but only a few eat snake. In the past a lot of people studied magic, who would dance and perform during festivals. There were also sword dancers who could not be cut, able to handle swords like toys. Even after the sword dancers would impale themselves they wouldn't bleed, so people thought they were ghosts.

Our Taboos are: No eating dog, goat, and snake, monitor lizard, large buffalo and centipedes.

<<the text goes on to recite an indecipherable spell>>

Some words in this spell are Chinese, some are Khmu. There are three main spells: Sam Koon, Paet Koon, Si Koon, Sam Yorn, Keuak Kap, Fa Maep, Kam Poon, Tayon Kao Hawk, Fang Lom, Kan Taeng, and Lai Ngam. I have studied the Lai Ngam with Nan Oubalee. It is used only in a dance.

Phoukha faltered at the end of the 18 th , early 19 th century, not only because of the Siamese depopulated the area. The empty city was open to invasion by the Chinese Haw and Burmese, who looted most of the temples, leaving nothing.

A. Raquet of the Italian newspaper le Figaro traveled 7 months through Laos from Lao Bao to Savanakhet, up the Mekong through Luang Prabang and then on to Muang Sing. He mentioned VPK in his book Pages Laotiennes (p. 34 – 235) printed in Hanoi , 1902. A hundred years ago he writes, VPK had a prince named Patavee with a 400 man Buddhist army. It is this group that holds the monks and temples. Everyone living in VPK originates in Muang Sing or Xieng Kaeng, left over from the time the Siamese took everyone to Nan . Phaya Patavee had much power and influence. He was protected by a circle of troops with guns and swords for the sake of the people of VPK.

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Written by Ganesco for le Figaro:

We arrived at Vieng Phoukha. It is a very rural town. Compared to a European city is only a swampy marsh covered in mist. No one is around to greet us. The town is located on a hillside, 1,600 meters above sea level, set in a sea of green forest. We venture only a few meters outside the main town and heard a deer being attacked by something. Our horses reared up in fright and tossed a rider into the stream we were crossing. We were lucky not to get caught in the dangerous forest. We then crossed a suspension bridge made of bamboo and approached the district administration office. From the sturdy plaster building emerged an army officer dressed in trousers and a blue shirt. It appeared that the man's main duty was controlling tigers and wild animals.